Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – Part 7

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – (Part 7) May/June 2014

We had arrived at Nossob Rest Camp in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park late in the afternoon the previous day and checked in at the reception with our ‘permit’ still intact and generally checked out our immediate location. There are a few things at the Nossob camp that would be of interest for the first time travellers/photographers to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Firstly the camp has ‘electrical power’ via its generator daily from 5-30am to 10pm, Secondly it has a shop and petrol, both of these are far and few between in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Lastly, Nossob has a great ‘hide’ with a made made ‘water hole’.  This hide is located beside the main ‘North’ and ‘South’ gates (more about this later) to the camp and thus is in easy walking distance from the camp. This hide also boasts a webcam which since returning home and checking it out seems to be up and running all the times I have visited. You can find this webcam and other SanParks webcams at the Nossob Webcam.

Yellow Canary
drinking at 'Cubitje Quap' waterhole

We had done our research and visited the previous afternoon a waterhole about 10km north of the camp called ‘Cubitje Quap’ known for its large flocks of Sandgrouse and Cape Turtle Doves, large Raptors and Black-backed Jackal all coming to drink there as well as some specials like Brown Hyena and Leopard. This waterhole is better for photography first thing in the morning due to the ‘light’ on the waterhole itself and has limited space around the waterhole to take photographs, so we were up early as normal and first at the gate going ‘North’ to get a good location for the mornings visit of the various wildlife species.  Nossob Rest Camp is ‘fenced’ unlike the Khalahari Tented Camp we had previously stayed at and one of only a few camps that are actually fenced in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Nossob is also a little different to all other camps I have stayed at before, as here you have to actually drive ‘into’ the camp. shut the gate and then open the other gate to continue. So coming from the south you would need to open the South gate, close it and open the North gate to continue your journey or vice versa.

We arrived first at the waterhole just after sunrise and we positioned ourselves the best we could with a good view of the waterhole some 30 meters away, It wasn’t long before a whole host of birds started to arrive, Yellow Canaries (Serinus flaviventris),  Red-headed Finches (Amadina erythrocephala) were amongst the first to appear in their droves, quickly flying in and ‘sipping’ the cool early morning waters and then out again to rest on a nearby bush, hardly resting for a moment before starting over again for a further drink. We soon found out why this curious back and forth of birds continued; it’s due to one of the famous predators of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park the ‘Lanner Falcon’ (Falco biarmicus). It swooped in narrowly ‘missing’ a couple of these small birds before returning to its look-out some 100 meters away in an old tree with a good vantage point to see the waterhole.

Next came the birds that have to drink daily in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, the Sandgrouse,

Burchells Sandgrouse taking off after taking a drink
at Cubitje Quap Waterhole

circling a few times like ‘bomber command’, flocks of Namaqua  Sandgrouse (Pterocles namaqua) and Burchell’s Sandgrouse (Pterocles burchelli)  came in one after the other to drink and then take off in the opposite direction in which they landed. Again the Lanner Falcon swooped in, this time ‘clipping’ a Namaqua  Sandgrouse but not sufficiently enough to knock it down. This is a deadly scene that is played out daily in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park for these birds, a balance based on a need for ‘water’ and a need for ‘food’.

Next up to drink and our only large mammal that morning was the ‘renowned’ scavenger of the Kgalagadi the Black-backed Jackal (Canis mesomelas), This predator was also very nervous as it drank there for a good few minutes, always raising it’s head and looking around every few seconds. We guessed this was to be on the look out for the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Parks apex predators the lions. Unfortunately for us and fortunately for the Jackal none appeared while we were there. We spent most of the morning at Cubitje Quap watching and photographing the comings and goings of the birds and various Jackals.

Later that morning we moved further North to ‘Kwang’ waterhole where it is said to have a large ‘sweet’ waterhole preferred by many animals. Sure enough the hour we sat there, large herds of Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus) and Red Hartebeest (Alcelaphus caama)  as well as the occasional Jackal and the now common flocks of birds came to drink.

Black-backed Jackal taking a much needed drink
at Kwang Waterhole

We made our way back to Nossob for lunch and then took ourselves South this time for an afternoon drive to ‘Rooikop’ and ‘Marie se draai’ waterholes. Not a lot happening unfortunately at the waterholes so we made our way back to camp and the hide, again not much happening there either so we decided to comeback later that evening for a second sitting as it was our last night at Nossob Rest Camp as our winter trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park was nearing an end. The night session was also quite quiet but the highlights were a Verreaux Eagle Owl (Bubo lacteus) which landed some distance from the hide just out past the waterhole and five Bat-eared Foxes (Otocyon megalotis) who also just ran through the area and didn’t stop to drink. We decided to make for our chalet and ensure a nice hot shower and cup of tea and jump into bed before the power went off. Tomorrow we were heading back down to Twee Rivieren Rest Camp and we’d also heard that the weather was going to take a turn and temperature were due to drop.

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – Part 6

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (Part 6) – May/June 2014

As always we rise early when on a ‘safari’ type vacation or photography shoot and more so on these last few mornings as we were on our first trip to the stunning Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa’s, Northern Cape.  The lions and the Black-backed Jackals were, as they had been on previous nights, very ‘vocal’. Would we see them this morning?  My wife and I discuss the possibilities as spotting Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park lion is a highlight of anybodies trip to the park and we excitedly agreed the roars we heard in the night and very early that morning came from the general direction in which we were to travel today.

This morning we were leaving behind the ‘Kalahari Tented Camp’ and surrounding area, where we had spent the last 3 wonderful days and nights, for today we were heading to the ‘Nossob’ rest camp a bit further North into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. A quick breakfast and with the car packed we went through our normal routine of getting our ‘permit’ at the Kalahari Tented Camps reception desk and set off for Nossob.

The sun was just beginning to creep over the sandy dunes of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and we had only been travelling a few minutes down the sandy tracks when my wife spotted him, a magnificent specimen of a male Kgalagadi Lion (Panthera leo) almost blending into the grass as the early morning sunlight bathed both him and the dune grass in a light orange glow. He was almost certainly the male lion we’d heard the previous night and earlier that morning just before daybreak. We tried to manoeuvre to get a better picture of this ‘king’ of the Kgalagadi Transfontier Park but unfortunately we were unable to do so as we had car ‘traffic’ build up behind us and we had a long way to go over the dune roads to Nossob Camp.

Kgalagadi Lion (Panthera leo) bathed in early morning sunshine.

Due to the distance we had to travel and the condition of the roads (sandy river beds) in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park we didn’t want to waste any time so we pressed on down the sandy river bed road of the Auob river heading for our first stop which was the ‘Dikbaardskolk Picnic Area’ which we later found out would be a welcome break. To get there we had to travel south for about 50 km to the ‘Upper’ dune road turning.  Then a further 50km on the upper dune road which traverses across the dunes between the Auob and the Nossob dry river beds.

Northern-black-Korhaan (Afrotis afraoides) – Female on the ‘Upper Dune’ road

As we hit the ‘Upper dune’ road the soft rutted sand of the Auob turned to deep hard ‘rutted’ course sand which when travelling at a modest 30km an hour was enough to ‘rattle’ the fillings in your teeth loose. About 3km along this road we sighted, strolling in front of us, a male and female Northern Black Korhaan’s, (Afrotis afraoides) the more colourful male unfortunately disappeared into the dune grass but the female gave us some great photographic opportunities. Continuing along the ‘road from hell’ it wasn’t only the ‘fillings’ that were being affected ‘bladders’ were also telling us to hurry along to the ‘Dikbaardskolk Picnic Area’. Ant-eating-Chat (Myrmecocichla formicivora) were common place along the road as well as Fawn-coloured Larks (Mirafra africanoides) and of course the ever present Pale Chanting Goshawks (Melierax canorus). The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park never had such a welcome sight as the turn into the ‘Dikbaardskolk Picnic Area’ and an end to the ‘Road from Hell’ or the Upper Dune Road.  The time was already approaching midday and we had travelled just the 100km since leaving the Khalahari Tented Camp at 7:30am that morning.

Dikbaardskolk Picnic Area -Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – South Africa

‘Dikbaardskolk Picnic Area’ was in a spotless condition and the toilets were well stocked with hand soap and toilet paper, a credit to Sanparks as basically we were at least 50 km from the nearest main camp Nossob (our destination for the next few days). In the Kruger

National Park at picnic areas Chacma Baboons (Papio ursinus) and Vervet Monkeys (Chlorocebus pygerythrus) tend to be a problem as people often feed these wild animals, who in turn become aggressive and a nuisance around food. DO NOT FEED WILD ANIMALS ..ok rant over, here at ‘Dikbaardskolk Picnic Area’ the problem wasn’t a primate but a bird, the ‘Sociable Weaver’ (Philetairus socius). These birds were everywhere, perching on your head as you sat to try and have a bite of a bun or sandwich. They even tried to take the bun from my wife’s hand as she ate. Amazing little birds though as they were followed around by their ever hungry chicks.

After our short break we pressed on towards Nossob rest camp, now on the dry sandy river bed of the ‘ephemeral’ Nossob River (they only flow for a short period and then only in really good rainy seasons). The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park really is diverse and good sightings of Black-shouldered kite (Elanus axillaris) who were busily feeding on one of the many rodents that inhabit the park. Herds of Sprinkbok (Elanus axillaris) and Gemsbok (Oryx gazella) were in great number all the way to Nossob Camp. We arrived at the camp after travelling the last 50 km at about 3pm in the afternoon and checked in to our chalet, unpacked the car which started our next leg of our trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Nossob Camp.

Bateleur Eagle

Bateleur Eagle – Majestic Eagle of the Savannah

The Bateleur Eagle (Terathopius ecaudatus) is a medium sized eagle of the African Savannah. Endemic to Africa this very colorful eagle is unmistakable in flight, with its very short tail (ecaudatus is Latin for tailless) and distinctive soaring and flight pattern, colorful plumage and white under wings the Bateleur Eagle is easy to spot soaring high and sometime not so high in the African sky’s.

Bateleur Eagle (Terathopius ecaudatus) - Kruger National Park, South Africa

Nile Crocodile

Nile Crocodile – The largest reptile in Africa

The Nile Crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) is the largest of any reptile in Africa, in fact the Nile Crocodile is the second largest of all living (extant) reptiles in the world, second only to another crocodile the Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus).

When we look at the sheer size that can be obtained by the Nile Crocodile, specimens have been measured at over 6m (20ft) in length and weighing in at over 900kg (2000lb) we see how intimidating and deadly the Nile Crocodile can be to its prey.

Nile Crocodile (Crocodylus niloticus) Lake Panic - Kruger National Park

African Wild Dog (Lycaon pictus) - Wildlife and Nature Pictures

African Wild Dog (Lycaon pictus)

Africa and particularly South Africa is rich in its biodiversity and large carnivores, one of Africa's rarest and most endangered wildlife species is the African Wild Dog (Lycaon pictus) or  Cape Hunting Dog, Painted Dog, Painted Hunting Dog, Painted Wolf, it is known by many names but the best is the African Wild Dog. A large carnivore it is known for its hunting skills in packs and the  relentless pursuit of its prey.

Although in saying that I found this one on its own on a tar road in South Africa's Kruger National Park.

African Wild Dog (Lycaon pictus) goes by many names- Kruger National Park-South Africa

Wildlife and Nature Pictures - Dwarf Mongoose

Wildlife and Nature Pictures - Dwarf Mongoose (Helogale parvula) Africa's Smallest Carnivore.

It always astonishes me when I hear people returning from game drives or outings in South Africa's nature/game reserves saying they ''haven't seen much wildlife''. Huh! If you really look, the 'bush' can tell you so much without actually seeing any wildlife at all! But that's another whole new post best kept for another day.  

Before I discuss about the Dwarf Mongoose (Helogale parvula) one of South Africa's smallest carnivores, I want to recant one of my training exercises as a field guide. When our instructor called us for an 'observation' exercise one morning, he asked us to 'walk through the bush (about a 100 mtrs) and pointed to the location to start. All he asked of us was to be observant and to simply tell him what we see. 

Well after the 3rd or fourth attempt most of our group had missed a 'red dust pan' hanging off a tree, another was a 'neck tie' tied around a bush and even a 'broom' laying in the grass, all with in 10 mtrs of our path through the bush! What I learn't that day was not to go into the bush with pre-conceived ideas of what you will see or expect to see, lions, leopards, the Big 5 and the like, look 'into' the bush, 'train' your eyes to your surroundings and take it slowly their is no rush or prizes to be won. By doing just this simple little thing my wildlife, photography and nature experiences have more than doubled I would safely say to what they used to be before I applied these simple principles -  'look and ye shall see'

Applying what I have just mentioned above, my wife and I were at a picnic spot in the Kruger National Park early one morning where we had stopped for breakfast and a cup of coffee. I was taking our rubbish to the rubbish bin which was against  sheer, craggy rocks. I put my rubbish in the bin and stood their looking around for a minute, when I gazed up about 10 meters above me I saw this little dwarf mongoose with his head peaking out from the rocks. I waited a further few minutes for him to appear fully and found an opportunity not only to observe but also to photograph him. If I had been less observant and not stopped and look around these rocks, this opportunity to see and photograph one of South Africa's smallest carnivores the Dwarf Mongoose, would have simply passed me by. 

Only found in South Africa in the far North East of the country the Dwarf Mongoose is literally what this mongoose is, a dwarf in size but not in stature at only a mere 25cm (10 inchs) and about 350g (1/2 lb) in weight. However, don't be fooled as the Dwarf Mongoose is a ferocious predator in its own right and is more than capable as a predator of snakes, lizards, small birds and rodents amongst other things. The Dwarf Mongoose is a diurnal (active during the day) animal, very territorial  with males marking their territory with anal and cheek gland secretions, that said they are a very sociable species, living in family groups of up to 20 + members headed up by a dominant pair.

Dwarf Mongoose (Helogale parvula) South Africa's Smallest Carnivore