Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - Part 4

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (Part 4) - May/June 2014 – Kalahari Tented Camp (Day 1)

Having traveled well over a 1000 km (600 miles) to get to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park this would be our first full day actually in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park proper. As we’d been woken early by the roars of the famous Kalahari black-maned lions close to the outside of our tent, we were up and had breakfast and packed ready for a mornings photography/game viewing and ready to depart by the 7-30am stipulated gate exit time at this time of the year (winter). It was cold, very cold about 5 deg C but clear and as the sun was rising we could see it was going to be a great day.

After collecting our ‘exit permit’ which is a golden rule in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (They will ask you where you are going and in case you do not return by the time the gate closes, which is metaphoric as there are ‘no gates or fences’ at the ‘Kalahari Tented Camp’ they will come to search for you) we thought we would head for the ‘Dalkeith Waterhole’ which we briefly discovered the day before on our journey in. We also thought we would drive at a slow pace to Dalkeith as it was only about 21 km away this would give us time to game view on the way as may birds and mammals were to be seen.

Scaly-feathered Finch
(Sporopipes squamifros)

We set off on the sandy dry riverbed road of the Auob river towards Dalkeith Waterhole which is identified as one of the better waterholes of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Travelling at about 20 km hr we started to see many of the bird species we had missed the previous day, Scaly-feathered Finches (Sporopipes squamifrons) lined our way perched on the shrub, hoping along the ground in and out the shrub were Kalahari Scrub-Robin (Erythropygia paena). Sat in the dry Auob river bed itself bathed in our early morning light was a Black-backed Jackal (Canis mesomelas) many Springbok (Antidorcas marsupialis), Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus) and Gemsbok (Oryx gazella) were dotted about on the dune banks.

Life in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is somewhat slow, it took

Black-backed Jackal
(Canis mesomelas)

us 2 hrs to arrive at ‘Dalkieth Waterhole’. A couple of cars had already parked up as we took our position ready for any action that may happen, immediately ‘mixed flocks’ of small birds perched in nearby bushes which included Red-headed Finches (Amadina erythrocephala) and Yellow Canaries (Serinus flaviventris) rushed to the waterhole to drink only staying for a few seconds to drink, before flying back to the relative safety of the bushes. This is due to the ever present ‘birds of prey’ like the Lanner Falcon (Falco biarmicus) who also frequent these waterholes but for very different reasons.

During the ‘winter months’ especially in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, all animals and birds at sometime or another come to the man made waterholes to drink, today was no exception although while at the waterhole we didn’t see any of our preferred mammals drinking,like the lion, leopard, cheetah or brown hyena but we did see herds of Gemsbok and Wildebeest come and quench their thirst in this beautiful desert park.

Red-headed Finch
(Amadina erythrocephala)

We headed back to camp for some lunch and a snooze (hard work this wildlife photography lark) before setting off to the main camp some 3km away called Mata Mata. There are only 3 main camps in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park where you can get ‘power’ and Mata Mata was one of them. We needed to recharge our camera and laptop batteries. We visited the camp shop to see what we could find and came away with the obligatory mug saying ‘Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park’ on the side.

Blue Wildebeest
(Connochaetes taurinus)
 

We headed for another small waterhole close to camp ‘Sitzas’ where we had seen the Secretarybirds (Sagittarius serpentarius) on our way to the camp the day before. We sat there enjoying the late afternoon sun with only a lone springbok to keep us company for the time we were there. Heading back to camp as the sun was setting to enjoy another ‘sundowner’ (drinks as the sun goes down) on our deck pondering our day and thinking about the ‘Milky Way’ I hoped I would see that night.

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – Part 3

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park- Part 3, May-June 2014 / Kalahari Tented Camp

As most days, we left our overnight stop (Augrabies National Park) at first light, which is about 7 am in the winter months here in South Africa. We had a long way to travel today, over 500 km (300 miles) part way, on terrain we weren’t 100% sure of what to expect. We were heading for our first destination in the famous arid and beautiful Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, where we would be spending the first 3 nights at the remote ‘Kalahari Tented Camp’.

So we set off en route for the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, as the sun rose it painted a glowing pale orange and yellow wash on the ‘quiver trees’ which lined our route out through the main gate of Augrabies. We had decided to forgo breakfast before we set off,  in favour of stopping at Vergelegen Guesthouse the little gem we found the previous day near Kakamas, which was only about 40 minutes drive away. After having bottomless coffee and a ‘farmhouse’ breakfast, muesli and toast, we had another quick wander around the pond attached to Vergelegen to see if we could see anything different from yesterday and to take a few photographs in the morning light.  We then set off for Upington.

Passing through Upington and turning northwards towards ‘Twee Rivieren’ and ‘check in’ at the southern entrance to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park we were making good time. As we drove the 250 km from Upington to Twee Rivieren the wide flat open spaces were left behind us and the rolling red sand dunes so indicative of this desert area here became more prominent and it felt as though you were on a roller coaster ride over the dunes.  More and more large Sociable Weaver’s (Philetairus socius)  nests (these nests are perhaps the most spectacular structure built by any bird) became evident as we were approaching the epicenter of their range in the Northern Cape and Southern Pale Chanting Goshawks (Melierax canorus)  seem to be on every other telephone pole or fence post we drove past.

We  finally arrived at the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and the ‘Twee Rivieren’ rest camp check in, South African side or the ‘Two Rivers’ check in and border post if you were to go to the Botswana side, both are the Southern gateways to the park.

'Twee Rivieren', Gateway to the
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

It was about 1pm  after we had checked in and received our ‘entry permit’ (which is a very important piece of paper, more about that later) just time for a picnic lunch at the Twee Rivieren camp site (first sighting of a yellow mongoose here) and deflate our tyres as we were to be driving on soft sand during our stay.  We were advised at reception it would take another 3.5 hrs minimum drive to our destination the ‘Kalahari Tented Camp’ which was only 120 km (75 miles) away and we had to be there by 6pm  before Rangers would be looking for us, plenty of time? Mmmmmmmmmmmm.

We finally drove through the main gate to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park proper at about 1.30 pm and we felt like we were really on our way, binoculars accessible, check, cameras accessible, check. We had been driving for about 30 minutes trying to get used to our new surroundings and the vastness of this ‘arid’ park and I said to my wife ..”well the road isn’t that bad to drive,  gravel, stoney and a little ‘rutty’”.. opp’s I spoke to soon.

(For those who don’t know, the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is largely based around 2 ‘dry’ riverbeds the ‘Auob’ and the ‘Nossob’.  These types of rivers are known as ‘ephemeral’ rivers which means they only flow for a short period and then only in really good rainy seasons. It is said a portion of the Auob flows every 11 years or so and the Nossob perhaps twice every 100 years, in fact the Nossob last flowed in 1963, and the Auob in 1973,1974 and again 2000.) These dry riverbeds are the main ‘arteries’ up through the park and this is what you drive on, a dry soft sandy river bed, ideally to be driven by a 4×4 vehicle and for me this type of vehicle is a must for anybody travelling in Africa. With a speed limit of no more than 40 km hr (25 miles hr) we were to experience something new for the first portion of our trip, we had to travel up the dry Auob riverbed. So after that first 30 minutes we dropped down into the 'Auob' river bed with white soft and rutted sand, things slowed down dramatically.

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and Auob river landscape was stunning though, wide open spaces where

Sandy River bed roads of the
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

herds of Gemsbok (Oryx gazella) roamed the river bed on both sides, Red Hartebeest (Alcelaphus caama) were also evident in great numbers. as well as Springbok (Antidorcas marsupialis) The ever present ‘Pale Chanting Goshawk’ (Melierax canorus) seemed to be regularly perched on the vast amount of grey ‘Camel Thorn’ tree’s which lined our route as they surveyed their territories. It was difficult to drive and take in everything as the car always wanted to go in a different direction than you but we still managed to make good time, we had done our research and knew that we were to look out for the waterholes with the names 13th Borehole and 14th Borehole, Dalkeith and Craig Lockhart these were good productive boreholes for birds and large mammals and 'markers' along the route.

The sun was now getting lower in the sky and according to our map we should have already passed these waterholes but we hadn’t.  It was about 4pm and no real landmark or signpost to see exactly where we were, the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and signposts were not as good as the Kruger National Park. We’d passed a few loop roads but hadn’t taken them as they were all 1km longer.  Eventually we decided to take one and discovered we were already at the Dalkeith waterhole; at last we had some reference, which meant we had already passed the 13th and 14th boreholes some kilometres back.

We couldn't stop for long at Dalkeith as we still had about 20km (12 miles) of sand road to drive until our final destination for the night, but made note to return in the morning. We managed to reach the last waterhole before the Kalahari Tented Camp by about 4-30 pm and so far we hadn’t taken any photographs. This waterhole was called ‘Sitsas’ and was about 5km (3 miles) from our camp. The late afternoon light was fantastic with soft shadows and a warm orange glow bathing everything in its light. We decided to stop at this waterhole for a little while to see what we could see. Sure enough within a few minutes four Secretarybirds (Sagittarius serpentarius) 'snake eating raptors' came to drink and delight us as they were really close, we were only 40 or 50 meters away from them. Four in one go, I hadn't seen four in total in the last four years and here they were altogether, the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park had not disappointed us.

Secretarybird (Sagittarius serpentarius) at the 'Sitsas' Waterhole

However, we had to leave and head for camp, we arrived just after 5pm so we had plenty of time to spare but it was still 3.5 hrs to drive 120 km (75 miles). We managed to find our tent for our stay (Sparkes No. 10)  'fortunately' written in a book at the small reception area, as nobody was at the reception to greet us, we set off to find it ourselves.   'Kalahari Tented Camp' only has 15 tents, erected in a line, high up on the bank overlooking the ‘Auob’ and what a view over this dry riverbed we had, we also had a clear view to the ‘floodlit’ waterhole across the other side of the river. What makes these rustic camps so special is that they are un-fenced, which means that there is nothing stopping any of the wildlife from wandering around the camp but you need to be a little bit careful and sensible when staying at these camps just in case.  We were shattered as we unloaded all our bags, boxes and equipment, the camp manager came shortly afterwards and introduced himself as ‘Jan’ and explained the rules about the permits to be signed in and out for each day. He took our permit and advised we could only take it from reception at 7-30am the following morning (just after first light).

We had our ‘Sundowners’ (drinks to watch the sun go down) and plan for tomorrows outing, followed by dinner, a quick shower and to bed listening to the sounds of Black-backed Jackal (Canis mesomelas) howling just outside our tent and lions roaring in the not too far distance, We had made our first night in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Tomorrow would be another day.

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - Part 2

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park- Part 2, May-June / Augrabies Falls National Park

On our journey to our ultimate destination which was the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park we wanted to investigate an area we had been recommended to visit in the Northern Cape, Augrabies Falls National Park so we decided to spend our next night at the falls before proceeding on to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and it wasn't that far out of our way only about 250 km which was not bad in the overall grand scale of things.

We continued our journey along the N14 and through the Northern Cape's mining towns of Kuruman and Kathu, the terrain had somewhat changed from the rolling hills of the north west province and it became flat and uninspiring here but as far as the eye could see the flora and fauna was 'oxide red' from the 'iron ore' dust that swept across the landscape at various times by the wind, brought about by the the open cast 'iron ore' mines that dot these areas, we continued heading on towards and through 'Upington' a large town and really the gateway to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Upington would be our 'left turn' the following day to take us on the road and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park bound. But for now, we pressed on shadowing the 'Orange River's' northern shores, passed the little villages of Keimoes and Kakamas into the Northern Cape's wine area where our landscape changed again. This time vast vineyards stretching   afar both sides of the road.

The Orange River is one of Africa’s great rivers and along its Northern Cape bank lie large white-wine producing vineyards. Perhaps not as well know as its Western Cape counter parts but certainly biting at its heels in terms of quality in South Africa and the international market, so keep an eye out for the label that has  'Orange River' marked on them.

By the time we had passed through Kakamas the last little village or 'dorp' as they are affectionately known here in South Africa, it was late morning and we were both eagerly looking out for a 'coffee and cake' stop as by now we had been on the road for about 5 hours. By chance we came across a delightful stop over for any traveller on this road Vergelegen Guesthouse which has a coffee shop and restaurant attached an ideal stop over for those travelling to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park or Augrabies Falls dependant in which direction you come. 

Luckily for us Vergelegen also had a small pond beside it. It was here we saw our first Karoo Thrush (Turdus smithi) the African Red-eyed Bulbul (Pycnonotus nigricans) and to our utter surprise, introduced Blacks Swans (Cygnus atratus) normally a native from Australia

Black Swan (Cygnus atratus)
at Vergelegen

Fed and watered we pressed on to Augrabies Falls (The Khoi people called it ‘Aukoerebis’, or place of great noise, as this powerful flow of water is released from rocky surroundings characterised by the 18km abyss of the Orange River Gorge) and arrived at about 3pm in the afternoon.  With quiver trees on either side of the road guiding us as we approached the main gate we quickly checked in and unloaded.  Our chalet for the night was simply outstanding and very well appointed with all one could need. 

With the sun starting to head towards setting we took our cameras and binoculars and headed out into one of the famous 'arid' South African parks and a place called 'moon rock'. 

Rock Hyrax at 'Moon Rock'

We were unfortunately running short of time due to our long journey that day but we had sight of Yellow Canary (Crithagra flavientris) and Acacia-pied Barbet (Tricholaema leucomelas) and Swallow-tailed Bee-eater (Merops hirundineus) as we drove along the parks dirt roads. 

We parked the car and walked up to 'Moon Rock', on our way up the gentle rock slope Rock Hyrax (Procavia capensis) or Rock Dassies as they are affectionately known here danced in and out the rocks and boulders.

At the top of Moon Rock you get one of the best views of the park we were told and it didn't disappoint, the light by this time was fading fast so it was time to get back to the car and head back to the chalet to prepare for dinner and early to bed for our trip, at first light, to Twee Rivieren Restcamp in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

'Moon Rock' Augrabies Falls National Park

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - Part 1, May/June 2014 Hoedspruit to Augrabies Falls National Park.

This years winter break saw my wife and I travelling from the Lowveld of Hoedspruit in Limpopo located in South Africa's far North East, to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in the Northern Cape, located in South Africa's far North West.  It would take us on a journey of discovery and 3200km (nearly 2000miles) round trip in just 10 days.

Both my wife and I were excited as this would be our first trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park one of South Africa's few 'arid' parks and a totally new experience for us both, as the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is probably one of the the last true 'wilderness' locations left in South Africa and indeed a far cry from the 'bush' of the Lowveld and the Kruger National Park. However, before we actually got to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park we decided to take a couple of days out and make a few detours, as we were travelling all that way.

With the car packed to the hilt with photographic equipment, warm clothing (as temperatures can get well below zero in the Kgalagadi) and food supplies, including 30 litres of fresh water for the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park leg of the journey, we set off in bright glorious winter sunshine at midday on the 29th May from a place called 'Bronkhorstspruit' near Pretoria in Gauteng on the first leg of our trip.  We travelled the rest of that day some 500km (just a little over 300 miles) to our overnight stop at a small lodge on the road called Klondike Lodge on the outskirts of a small town called 'Vryburg' in South Africa's North West Province, but still a long way from our ultimate goal of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

The next day saw us up reasonably bright and early and ready to leave after breakfast at about 7-30am as the sun barely rises above the horizon before 7am in the winter months in South Africa (June-August) and we had a further 500km (again just a little over 300 miles) or so to travel that day to our next destination which was 'Augrabies Falls National Park'.

The sun shone and the road was good and reasonably clear as we continued our journey through to the Northern Cape, we noticed a distinct change in some bird life as we travelled into the Northern Cape after leaving 'Vryburg' and we swapped the menacing looking 'Pied Crows' (Corvus albus) and their 'messy' stick nests on the telegraph poles which had been following us since we had left Gauteng the previous day, for the huge and orderly 'communal' nests of the 'Sociable Weaver' (Philetairus socius).  These nests are perhaps the most spectacular structure built by any bird.

We will continue our journey with you in next weeks blog post as we arrive at the 'Augrabies Falls National Park' and onward to our first day in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park at the Kalahari Tented Camp where we were to spend our first days and nights in the park.

'Communal' Sociable Weavers nest on a telegraph pole